Interview with Rem D. Koolhaas, Creative Director and Founder of United Nude, ahead of Premiere Classe 7th to 10th of March 2025 edition.
Since its inception in 2003, United Nude has continuously redefined the boundaries of footwear by merging architectural technicality with a fashion-forward design conception. Founded by architect Rem D. Koolhaas and Galahad Clark, the brand has become a symbol of conceptual design, structural innovation and aesthetic boldness. As Premiere Classe’s March 2025 edition approaches, United Nude prepares to showcase its latest collection to the global fashion industry. We had the opportunity to delve into the brand’s creative vision, challenges, and future aspirations with its founder Rem D. Koolhaas.
The birth of United Nude: An architectural approach to footwear
The genesis of United Nude is a personal story, one of emotion and transformation. "As an architect, I was fascinated by structure and movement, and this shoe was born from that idea—creating a continuous loop inspired by the Möbius strip." The Möbius shoe quickly became an iconic signature piece of the brand, gaining traction in prestigious department stores such as Selfridges, Jeffries in New York, and Fred Segal on the West Coast. This first creation not only defined United Nude’s DNA but also set the tone for the brand’s philosophy: translating architectural concepts into wearable design. "We are not just making shoes; we are making design objects that challenge conventions," Koolhaas affirms.
The creative vision: Where Architecture meets Fashion
United Nude explores the synergy between architecture, art, and fashion. "Our designs are bold, structured, and sculptural, often playing with geometric forms, cutting-edge materials, and avant-garde aesthetics," Rem shares. "We design for individuals who dare to stand out, those who see fashion as an extension of their identity."
The brand is recognized for its cutting-edge approach to shoemaking, often involving collaborations with renowned creatives like architect Zaha Hadid, and fashion designers Iris van Herpen and Issey Miyake notably. "Each collaboration is an opportunity to push boundaries and redefine what footwear can be. With Zaha Hadid, we worked on the Nova shoe, using a never-before-seen rotational molding technique, usually reserved for industrial products like rubber ducks," he reveals.
A longstanding partnership with Premiere Classe
United Nude’s history with Premiere Classe dates back to its early years. "We exhibited at Premiere Classe multiple times when the brand first launched, and it was always an excellent platform for concept stores and avant-garde retailers," Rem recalls. "Now, after a break from trade shows, we are returning because we feel our latest designs, especially the newest bag collection we will showcase during this upcoming edition are perfectly suited for this kind of curated event."
He describes Premiere Classe as a key space for connecting with industry professionals, concept store buyers, and fashion-forward retailers looking for unique pieces. "It’s not just about sales; it’s about presenting a vision. The kind of audience we meet here understands and appreciates design-driven footwear and fashion apparel on a more global scale."
Sustainability in design, Challenging durability with timeless creations
Sustainability is becoming increasingly integral to United Nude’s innovation process. "We are experimenting with new materials, reducing waste, and developing footwear that balances durability, design, and environmental responsibility," says Koolhaas. "We have worked with 3D printing technology to minimize waste and are continuously exploring ways to make our production more sustainable. Although sustainability might not be at the forefront of our creative process, we as designers believe that the best way to integrate sustainable considerations resides in creating timeless and durable pieces that shall adapt to your wardrobe as time passes by"...
A promising return to Premiere Classe in 2025
This season, United Nude is set to unveil a collection that fuses cutting-edge materials with striking architectural silhouettes through a curated selection of iconic shoe design and bag collections. "Expect bold lines, unexpected textures, and a reinvention of classic shoe structures—a perfect balance of functionality and avant-garde aesthetics," Koolhaas teases.
A highlight of the new collection will be line of customizable boots and bags. "Our bags feature a dynamic design where users can change and personalize text elements, making each piece unique," he shares. "It’s a playful yet sophisticated concept that aligns with our ethos of functional innovation." – "It’s all about pushing the limits of what footwear can be and express," Rem D. concludes.
What’s up for United Nude’s future…
"United Nude is continuously evolving. Our next steps include exploring even more radical designs, expanding into new categories such as accessories and apparel, and deepening our commitment to sustainable innovation," Koolhaas reveals. "We also see collaborations as a key part of our future—working with architects, designers, and artists to create limited-edition pieces that challenge the norms of wearable architecture."
As United Nude gears up for its return to Premiere Classe, Rem D. Koolhaas remains focused on one mission: "We want to redefine footwear, to continue creating objects of desire that fuse design and functionality. That’s what excites us the most."
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Interview with Rem D. Koolhaas, Creative Director and Founder of United Nude, ahead of Premiere Classe 7th to 10th of March 2025 edition.
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