Street Culture resonates with the complexity of a city’s soul. The people, as a community, are those who define and codify its intricacies. Lifestyle, Fashion, Art and Music intertwine through the cosmopolitan blend that characterizes the singularity of a city’s vibe and energy.
During an inspiring encounter with two artistic directors from Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) and Lagos (Nigeria), we got the opportunity to exchange on their creative vision for the fashion industry while delving into the complexity of urban cultures in their respective areas and the way they differ from our Western aesthetics and approach.
Luciana Nigro designs for Kenner, an almost 30 years old Brazilian street style shoe brand, famous for their iconic sandals and their ‘Rakka Sole’ technology. Her initial approach to creativity came through her studies in product and graphic design. Luciana’s ethos stands within her consideration of Fashion as rather trends-driven and ephemeral. Her philosophy therefore translates into the broad world of Art and creative production, as a translation to more long-lasting timeless designs and forms.
Jomi Bello is an artistic director for WAF. (formerly Wafflesncream), a lifestyle and streetwear Nigerian brand with strong ties to skating culture and communities, recognized in all of Africa as a leader of the continent’s creative landscape. Jomi’s vision profoundly resonates with Luciana’s, as both creatives do not consider their work as properly “making fashion”. His career began as a “kind of failure” as per his words. His family’s longstanding background in design and his brother's involvement in creative production was the trigger to start his path in the field of creation, while still figuring out his way through life. His philosophy rests on experimenting, failing, trying to blend a passion, skateboarding in his case, with his own professional prospects.
Urban cultures do not adhere to strict definitions. Each city has its own evolving history, shaped by movement, art, and music, constantly redefining its "street style."
Luciana reflects on Kenner's evolution: “Kenner wasn’t really conscious of its ties to street style, but I think that’s something the brand has always had in its soul, as it kept growing and reaching larger audiences. Our initial sandal designs were rather functional and minimalistic, but they then started evolving towards more graphical and urban-like shapes.” Luciana highlights the Brazilian street style's essence: practicality, comfort, and a casual approach that blends personal taste and needs. “It really is the core of Brazilian street style. Brazil is such a diversified country. There isn’t a proper way to define what street style is in our area. A common point we might highlight is the universal casualness there is in the way Brazilians dress.”
Jomi elaborates on Lagos' dynamic street culture, pointing out its unique environment and resilient community spirit. "Growing up in Lagos," Jomi reflects, "you quickly learn that survival is about community. It's a place where everyone is hustling for their piece of the pie, and that hustle breeds a certain resilience and creativity." He emphasizes that street style in Lagos is an expression of the soul: “Street style here," he continues, "isn't just about fashion—it's an expression of identity and survival. It is how we navigate this bustling, beautiful chaos every day.” This foundational energy drives Jomi's creations for WAF, infusing them with the raw essence of street culture.
Urban cultures thrive on vibrant community interactions, constantly reshaping street style. Jomi and Luciana's approaches to fashion are deeply rooted in their respective experiences in Nigeria and Brazil.
Jomi emphasizes dialogue's importance in urban culture: "For me, it's like a conversation. I always say, conversations rule the nation." His design philosophy draws from Lagos' social dynamics, inspired directly by his surroundings. "All I need to do is go for a walk. My moodboard is life, the people, what and who surrounds me." This ensures his designs resonate deeply with the community. "If you're not a people person, you can't do streetwear. It's about representing people and telling their stories."
Luciana aligns with Jomi's views, affirming, "I like the image of people being our moodboard. That's the reason why we design, for the communities that inspire us." Kenner's design essence is "Form follows function," focusing on utilitarian products that serve the individual's journey, blending quality, durability, and practicality.
Designing with conscience means navigating through sustainability, social justice, and fair practices.
Luciana highlights the need to stay connected to their community, addressing issues faced by marginalized groups in Brazil. "The main challenge is to keep connected to our people. If we keep making our creations better, our consumers notice this." Trust and product quality are crucial in maintaining these connections.
Jomi insists on WAF’s holistic approach to sustainability, considering each individual needs: "If you're going to be sustainable, be sustainable from bottom to top, from the clothing to the people, to the welfare and all related challenges." This translates into fair labor practices, local tailors, and a zero-waste policy for the brand. Inclusivity is key. That means employing individuals based on potential. "We give everybody a six-week chance. Come and prove yourself, that’s our philosophy." Sustainability for Jomi extends beyond environmental concerns to social equity and community support: "Sustainability is not charity."
Luciana echoes these sentiments, focusing on product durability as a key aspect of sustainability: "If the product is durable, we are being sustainable. We have sandals here that last five, six, ten years." She also stresses reducing waste while maintaining ethical practices and community engagement.
Kenner's partnership with WSN started through strategic introductions for international expansion prospects. Luciana narrates: "Our collaboration was initiated by our marketing sports manager. He was determined to elevate Kenner's global presence and reinforce our position as a leading brand for Brazilian lifestyle." Initially targeting Miami, Kenner is now set to explore Paris, a city renowned for its innovative fashion. "This venture into Paris is crucial for us to expand our reach and gain visibility in a fashion-forward environment."
WAF’s connection with WSN began with help from mutual collaborator, Emmanuelle Courrèges from LAGO54 in Nigeria. Jomi reflects, "WSN’s enthusiasm for our brand and their visit to Nigeria inspired this partnership. We see Paris as an exciting platform to broaden our network and showcase our unique offers."
As the Who’s Next show approaches, both brands' expectations arise. Kenner aims to enhance its visibility in Europe and build valuable connections. "We are eager to engage with the Parisian fashion community and explore new markets and collaborations opportunities." Similarly, WAF looks forward to expanding their network and representing their culture globally. Jomi shares, "Paris is the fashion capital of the world. We’re excited to be part of that conversation and to show the world what we have to offer, be ambassadors not only for Nigeria but for the global African creative landscape."
While exploring the prospects of potential further collaborations, their first trade-shows on the horizon, Jomi and Luciana's encounter marked a compelling narrative on the essence of urban cultures through their brands, WAF. and Kenner. Jomi emphasizes resilience, tenacity, and the importance of building a supportive community. His message is clear: "Don't listen to anyone, but also listen to people," urging future creators to filter advice and stay true to their vision. Luciana highlights the timeless value of courage and innovative mindsets, regardless of age. She believes in the power of the soul and creative essence before the product.
Defining their brands in three words, WAF stands for “community, community and community” as per Jomi’s words, while Kenner embodies “functionality, curiosity and charisma”. Their common message to future generations: Stay courageous, resilient, and true to your essence.
Come and discover Kenner and WAF. (on the What’s Up space) at Porte-de-Versailles from the 8th to the 10th of September for the upcoming edition of Who’s Next trade show in Paris.
From October 3rd to 6th, Pampa The Brand will unveil its vision of contemporary craftsmanship at Premiere Classe in the Jardin des Tuileries.
Amid the curated elegance of Premiere Classe, Patricia Sáinz Martín—founder of PAT Studio, a handbag brand known for its sculptural refinement—presents a body of work that is sensory, deliberate, and timeless.
As the upcoming edition of Premiere Classe approaches, from the 3rd to the 6th of October 2025, the pulse of contemporary creativity meets the rhythm of craftsmanship. Carlota Cahis emerges with a proposal both fresh, intimate and luminously composed.
Amid the continuous energy of Bijorhca, held alongside Who’s Next—where trends are shaped, and creative ideas collide—one enigmatic figure captured the audience’s attention. Gabrielle Huguenot, winner of the Hyères Grand Jury Prize in the Accessories category, transcended the stage of this event, operated under the BOCI, with a performance that was both unsettling and hypnotic.
Interview with Rem D. Koolhaas, Creative Director and Founder of United Nude, ahead of Premiere Classe 7th to 10th of March 2025 edition.
During the latest edition of Premiere Classe, held in the heart of the Carrousel du Louvre, one of the event's most anticipated moments was the talk by Stephen Jones, the iconic British milliner.
Founded by sisters Fazla and Eda Topbaş, Vuqu is a Turkish leather goods house based in Istanbul that skillfully combines elegance and functionality.
Founded by Japanese designer Akane Horikami, Ten. has become a go-to brand for those seeking a blend of nature, minimalism, and contemporary elegance. At this fifth participation in Premiere Classe, Ten. continued to captivate with a collection exploring fluid lines while introducing more geometric elements.
At her debut showing at Premiere Classe, Raquel Figueroa Borque, founder of the leather goods brand RFB, shared her journey, inspirations, and vision for a sustainable, timeless, and meaningful approach to fashion.
Founded by Ludovica Virga, House of Mua Mua stands out with its playful, humour-filled approach to fashion. At this September’s edition of Premiere Classe, Ludovica presented her new collection, Happiness is a Summer in Italy, inspired by her summer holiday memories. This collection brilliantly reflects the brand’s DNA, combining light-heartedness, humour, and meticulous craftsmanship.
The hat and accessories house Catarzi 1910, led by the Nistri couple as co-directors and designers, represents far more than a family business. It embodies a century of artisanal traditions, creativity, and innovation carried across generations.
Amambaih, founded by Mariela Schwartz Montielle, represents a unique fusion of art, culture, and humanity. Originally from Paraguay, Mariella draws on her multicultural roots to realise a creative vision that goes far beyond simply crafting artisanal shoes and bags.
Based in New York City, the hat brand Esenshel, founded and led by Rodney Patterson, embodies a unique approach to hat creation.
For Thaïs Roblowski, fashion is a true calling, and after studying design and pattern-making at the Chambre Syndicale and interning at Thom Browne in New York and Mugler, she became a stylist at Cacharel and Alzaro.
Amid the vibrant energy of emerging talents shaping the future of fashion, one designer stands out for her bold vision and unwavering commitment to sustainability. Léa Theres Lahr-Thiele, the young German prodigy and winner of the prestigious NEONYT Texpertise Sustainability Award, shines brightly this season with her meaningful and innovative approach to design.
Founded in 2021 by Germain Provot Lorenz, Treaptyque is far more than just a showroom—it's a vibrant and unique space dedicated to curating exceptional pieces.
The Premiere Classe fair will soon open its doors to unveil an exclusive selection of leather goods brands and bags creators. This prestigious event shall showcase the exceptional craftsmanship and ongoing innovation within the Italian creative landscape.
KEIA (Korea Environmental Industry Association) advocates for eco-conscious initiatives among creative industries in South Korea and abroad notably. Since 2023, the association has been exhibiting on our IMPACT trade show along with Who’s Next. Their project revolves around supporting and promoting sustainable practices and key players of Korea’s industries on an international scale.
Street Culture resonates with the complexity of a city’s soul. The people, as a community, are those who define and codify its intricacies. Lifestyle, Fashion, Art and Music intertwine through the cosmopolitan blend that characterizes the singularity of a city’s vibe and energy.
Founded in Rimini from the vision of the eponymous young Italian designer, Judy Mazzotti, Judy created her brand with a focus on the future and research and development centred on innovation and sustainability.
As a partner of the Prix de la Création de la Ville de Paris, Premiere Classe is inviting Domestique - Prix Accessoires de Mode, and Clara Daguin - Grand Prix Mode, from 1 to 4 March 2024.
Every year since 1985, Hyères has played host to the Festival de la Mode et de la Photographie.
In an exhibition at the entrance of Premiere Classe, Birimian shed light on the African New Avant-Garde Creative, which is supported through a unique accelerator program in partnership with the Institut Français de la Mode.
Amid the curated elegance of Premiere Classe, Patricia Sáinz Martín—founder of PAT Studio, a handbag brand known for its sculptural refinement—presents a body of work that is sensory, deliberate, and timeless.
As the upcoming edition of Premiere Classe approaches, from the 3rd to the 6th of October 2025, the pulse of contemporary creativity meets the rhythm of craftsmanship. Carlota Cahis emerges with a proposal both fresh, intimate and luminously composed.
Interview with Janina Düttmann, Designer and Founder of Düttmann, during Premiere Classe March 2025 Edition under ‘Jardins des Tuileries’ iconic venue.
As the global fashion industry gathered in Paris for the latest edition of Premiere Classe, a new voice in the world of accessories emerged — Millia. Founded by Carmen Inez, the Amsterdam-based brand offers a bold, conceptual approach to leather good design, drawing from architectural forms, interior design influences, and a rather eclectic color palette. With a deep commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability, Millia's presence under the tents of Premiere Classe thoroughly captured the attention of buyers and creatives alike.
For her first participation at Premiere Classe, Christine Phung introduces a collection that merges architectural precision with fluid motion and all elements of Nature’s energy expression, a balance between structure and radiance expressed by colours and patterns with underlying deep meaningful expressions. With a career spanning prestigious houses like Lemaire, Chloé, and Vanessa Bruno, Phung has refined a pragmatic yet poetic approach to design.
As Premiere Classe once again gathered the most visionary emerging designers, Petite A stood out with its ethereal craftsmanship and poetic use of glass as a main creative medium.
On her first visit to Paris for the Premiere Classe trade show, Pamela Duque — a buyer for the URBN group, which includes Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie, and Nuuly — offered a fresh take on the show’s distinctive positioning. She attended with the aim of curating a selection for Nuuly, URBN’s short-term clothing and accessories rental platform.
For the buyers at Al Tayer, based in Dubai, Premiere Classe is an essential destination for discovering emerging brands and spotting unique pieces that resonate with their luxury-conscious clientele. This year, Anastasia Gurskaya and other members of her team focused on accessories and jewellery, seeking out brands that align with the Middle Eastern market’s appreciation for exclusivity, craftsmanship, and sustainability.
At the latest edition of Who’s Next in January 2025, Esra Baysal, buyer for Istanbul-based concept store Vakko, had a clear mission. Her goal? To seek out excellence and a unique identity. The purpose? To enhance their global selection for the season.
Opening a boutique is a dream come true for Véronique Cheurlin, who has been attending Who’s Next for three seasons in search of hidden gems.
The doors of Victorienne, a family-run luxury boutique in Bolzano, Italy, have welcomed customers for the past 36 years. Specializing in premium European and American brands, the store has become a staple for high-end fashion lovers. Today, Sophie Carreras, who grew up immersed in this world, shares insights into her profession.
36 years ago, Maha Misto opened the first Green Bird Boutique in Abu Dhabi. Since then, she has opened two more stores showcasing premium brands, from Couture to ready-to-wear. During the last Who’s Next edition, she explained her job and her views on the industry.
The latest edition of Who's Next marked a significant milestone for Belgian fashion designer Valentine Witmeur, allowing her to showcase her brand and its evolution.
For the past ten years, Khadra Fliss has been walking the aisles of the Bijorhca trade show. She is the creator of the successful jewelry brand Belle mais pas que, which specializes in Miyuki beads. She shares her story with us and unveils the new pieces that will mark this season.
Interview with Rem D. Koolhaas, Creative Director and Founder of United Nude, ahead of Premiere Classe 7th to 10th of March 2025 edition.
Since its creation in 2017, The Good Goods has established itself as a unique media and creative studio, dedicated to transforming the fashion, textile, and luxury industries.
In the vibrant setting of the Beyond the Noise space at Premiere Classe, a talk hosted by Mixte Magazine captivated the audience with an audacious theme: how the new generation of designers is reshaping fashion by reconnecting with nature and craftsmanship.
Founded by sisters Fazla and Eda Topbaş, Vuqu is a Turkish leather goods house based in Istanbul that skillfully combines elegance and functionality.
Founded by Japanese designer Akane Horikami, Ten. has become a go-to brand for those seeking a blend of nature, minimalism, and contemporary elegance. At this fifth participation in Premiere Classe, Ten. continued to captivate with a collection exploring fluid lines while introducing more geometric elements.
At her debut showing at Premiere Classe, Raquel Figueroa Borque, founder of the leather goods brand RFB, shared her journey, inspirations, and vision for a sustainable, timeless, and meaningful approach to fashion.
Founded by Ludovica Virga, House of Mua Mua stands out with its playful, humour-filled approach to fashion. At this September’s edition of Premiere Classe, Ludovica presented her new collection, Happiness is a Summer in Italy, inspired by her summer holiday memories. This collection brilliantly reflects the brand’s DNA, combining light-heartedness, humour, and meticulous craftsmanship.
The hat and accessories house Catarzi 1910, led by the Nistri couple as co-directors and designers, represents far more than a family business. It embodies a century of artisanal traditions, creativity, and innovation carried across generations.
Amambaih, founded by Mariela Schwartz Montielle, represents a unique fusion of art, culture, and humanity. Originally from Paraguay, Mariella draws on her multicultural roots to realise a creative vision that goes far beyond simply crafting artisanal shoes and bags.
As the western aesthetic captivates designers, brands, and consumers, one French brand is riding the wave: Soco. Created in 1932, this “sleeping beauty” brand was revived three years ago, following a brief closure, thanks to the efforts of two passionate sisters-in-law who share the same first name. So the story of Soco is continuing under the stewardship of the “Maries Mignon.”
The Turkish brand Khailo Silver has been offering modern and elegant jewellery for over ten years. With meticulous finishes inspired by fine and high jewellery, their premium designs, often adorned with Swarovski crystals or other precious and semi-precious stones, have made them internationally renowned.
Founded in 2015 by the Italian duo Michelangelo Brancato and Francilla Ronchi, Coreterno is a niche perfume brand whose name means “eternal heart” in Italian, and the brand creates unique candles imbued with esotericism. Their style is a blend of rock, almost punk aesthetics, and a mystical aura, forming an invisible bridge between the ancient and the modern.
Based in New York City, the hat brand Esenshel, founded and led by Rodney Patterson, embodies a unique approach to hat creation.
Presenting for the first time at Premiere Classe, Amina Galal represents a new generation of Arab designers who blend tradition and modernity with a personal, emotional touch.
For Thaïs Roblowski, fashion is a true calling, and after studying design and pattern-making at the Chambre Syndicale and interning at Thom Browne in New York and Mugler, she became a stylist at Cacharel and Alzaro.
The Parisian eye of Japanese department store Isetan Mitsukoshi tells us about her latest Who’s Next fashion crushes.
Reinhard Plank (Founder and milliner), originally from Vipiteno (Italy) near the Austrian border, first studied design in Vienna before turning to millinery. "I started with hats in Vienna, and my first classic model was a great success," he says. Drawn to Florence's rich hat-making heritage, Reinhard chose this city to perfect his craft.
At the latest edition of “Who’s Next,” we spoke with Camille Pouvreau and Lucas Bouteille, watch and jewellery buyers for Galeries Lafayette, about the burgeoning men’s jewellery market and the long-lasting nature of trends in the watch sector.
A key player in the watchmaking industry since the 1950s, the American Movado Group initially established itself through the distribution of traditional Swiss brands. Over time, it expanded globally, broadening its portfolio to include contemporary designs and jewellery.
Founded in 1954 by the current owner’s parents, Antonio, the Italian shoe brand Guglielmo Rotta is the perfect example of a family craftsmanship that has evolved while remaining true to its roots. At this edition, the brand presented a collection that perfectly illustrates its commitment to quality, timelessness, and Italian craftsmanship.
“Streetwear but make it Couture!” Very Rare, a lifestyle and ready-to-wear brand under the direction of Raf Reyes, embodies an avant-garde vision of streetwear through what the designer defines as ‘street couture’. Born during the 2020 health crisis, this family-run brand, founded with his older brother, stands out for its fluid silhouettes, intricate details such as embroidery, flocking, and graphic prints, and strong influences from 90s subcultures.
For over 15 years, BSL, a Turkish ready-to-wear brand, has made a name for itself in the fashion market in Turkey, with stores in the country’s major cities such as Istanbul, Izmir, Ankara, and Antalya. Initially focused on its own retail outlets, BSL adopted a new strategy last year: expanding its distribution network across Europe.
Reinterpreting its heritage Braccialini, the iconic Italian brand from Florence, is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. "We were born in Florence, and the natural and architectural beauty of Tuscany greatly inspires our creations," shares Daniela, the brand's sales agent.
Craftsmanship at the heart of jewellery creation: a self-taught journey and the rise of gatsby soldering workshop Fifteen years ago, Julie Sion made her mark in the world of costume jewellery with a unique and passionate approach. "I stumbled into this profession a bit by chance," she admits. Self-taught, her first steps into creation were through a craft-focused approach, before collaborating with French workshops to ensure ethical and high-quality production for her eponymous brand. These collaborations led her to develop a strong and engaged community, not only around her creative project but also through the human values she upholds in her work.
During their debut at Who’s Next, the South Korean brand Temp’s, led by Joanne Jeon Eun-jung, captured attention with its deep commitment to sustainability, combined with a modern and conceptual approach to design.
Pamela Kemmat, the influencer and founder of the Pamela Rouen boutique, and her mother Nadège Thevenon, founder of the Paloma Rouen boutique, share their thoughts on “Who’s Next,” an event they regard as the beating heart of the fashion industry.
Meet Abasiekeme Ukanireh, the visionary founder and artistic director of Eki Kere, a Nigerian brand that has captivated audiences with its unique creations, showcasing vibrant raffia-based designs.
Who's Next? The great thing about the initial chaos of Who's Next is that it has lasted.
Street Culture resonates with the complexity of a city’s soul. The people, as a community, are those who define and codify its intricacies. Lifestyle, Fashion, Art and Music intertwine through the cosmopolitan blend that characterizes the singularity of a city’s vibe and energy.
Since its inception in 2019, La Mode Européenne (LME) has stood out for its innovative and transformative approach to the fashion industry. By creating solidarity shops in Congo-Brazzaville and Cape Verde, stocked through donation boxes for clothing and accessories circulated in France and Europe, La Mode Européenne is committed to social and professional reintegration and creating local employment.
Lavinia Muth, an economist specialising in business ethics for actors of the fashion landscape, has dedicated 15 years to advancing social and ecological standards in the textile and creative industries. Her work as an external auditor, inspector, and investigator, in collaboration with Messe Frankfurt’s trade shows for instance, underscores her commitment to fighting against “corporate sustainability” and “green-washing”.
Julien Martinez, founder of the high-end ‘souliers’ brand Souliers Martinez, embodies the perfect fusion of traditional artisanal craftsmanship and contemporary innovation. Combining his deep Spanish roots with his Parisian cultural influences, his company stands out with a unique approach to leather weaving, supported by committed sustainable values and strong ethics.
Founded in Rimini from the vision of the eponymous young Italian designer, Judy Mazzotti, Judy created her brand with a focus on the future and research and development centred on innovation and sustainability.
Every year since 1985, Hyères has played host to the Festival de la Mode et de la Photographie.
Bastien Beny and Simon Delacour are the creative minds behind the Domestique brand, leather goods accessories made in Paris.
At La Caserne, a sustainable fashion incubator in Paris's 10th arrondissement, Jeanne Friot crafts impactful fashion.