Christine Phung: The Art of fluid structure at Premiere Classe

For her first participation at Premiere Classe, Christine Phung introduces a collection that merges architectural precision with fluid motion and all elements of Nature’s energy expression, a balance between structure and radiance expressed by colours and patterns with underlying deep meaningful expressions. With a career spanning prestigious houses like Lemaire, Chloé, and Vanessa Bruno, Phung has refined a pragmatic yet poetic approach to design.

Winner of the “Grand Prix de la Création de la Ville de Paris” (2012) and the L’ANDAM Prize (2013), her work has been featured on the official Fashion Week calendar, marking her as a designer who blends artistic vision with technical expertise through a thorough yet eclectic spiritual expression Christine Phung  got to walk us through the philosophy behind each of her designs, the role of color and light diffraction in her work, and how Premiere Classe has shaped her latest collection.

A New chapter: Studio Christine Phung’s Premiere Classe debut


Phung’s return to independent creation has bloomed after years of directing artistic projects for established fashion houses. “After stepping away from my brand to work with Leonard and  Princesse tam tam, I wanted to independtly start again with a new focus,” she shares. “This time, my approach is more pragmatic yet still deeply rooted in my love for colors, motifs and patterns as well as the fluidity of structure so as to reflect a genderless and universal collection that could appeal to each individual based on their personal interpretation of creativity.”


At the core of her collection stands the idea of “soft carapaces”—garments that envelop and protect while still light and dynamic. “I design for freedom and/of movement,” she details. “My pieces are meant to flow, allowing each wearer’s energy to radiate outward through the lense of my garments… ”

This fluid structure is  mainly reflected in her choice of materials. “I’ve worked with upcycled Longchamp leather for accessories, introducing a circular approach to luxury,” she highlights. “It’s about creating a wardrobe that feels composite, comfortable, universal yet timeless to all.”


Colours, motifs, and the projection of Energy


For Phung, color is more than an aesthetic choice — it’s an energy source. “Colors have the power to transform both the wearer and the observer,” she states. “They project radiance, vitality, and a unique presence.”


Her process begins with pattern development, treating each garment as a singular canva. “I start with sketches and motifs, often inspired by geometry in nature and the diffraction of light,” she expands. “I want the pieces to feel alive, to shimmer and shift as the wearer moves and thrives while wearing my pieces….”


This philosophy extends to her signature piece — the archetype of the shirt. “A shirt is universal, gender-fluid, and endlessly versatile,” Phung states. “It serves as a foundation for experimentation, whether through asymmetrical cuts, layering, or unexpected color juxtapositions.”

Accessories and the notion of “flow”


Phung’s collection isn’t just about clothing — it is about movement. Her accessories are designed for the modern nomad individuals, those who exist in constant motion. “Travel and flux are central themes to my design dynamics,”. “The bags, for example, adapt to different uses – there is a weekend bag, a multi-pocket carryall, and sleek passport holders that reflect the idea of seamless mobility.”


She sees her clientele as part of the (eclectic) ‘creative class’ — individuals who balance artistic sensibility with dynamic lifestyles. “My designs are for those who appreciate beauty but also demand function. People who are in  constant yet regular motion, whether physically or intellectually.”


The right audience at Premiere Classe


Choosing Premiere Classe as the platform for her relaunch was a strategic decision. “This trade show is cosmopolitan, connected, and allows for true creative exchange,” Phung explains. “I wanted to be part of an environment where art, fashion, and design could collide and converge.”

She also believes in the organic nature of discovery. “Instead of chasing retailers, I wanted to create a gravitational pull—where the right buyers could naturally find me,” she admits. “It’s about alignment, about attracting those who truly understand and resonate with my work and creative philosophy...”


This approach has already borne fruit, with three boutiques signing on to carry her line. “Buyers’ feedback helped refine the collection,” she notes. “They gravitated towards the boldest pieces— vibrant colors, structured garment fluidity… That validation allows me to sharpen my vision even further.”

Paris: A framework for tradition and modernity blends


For Christine, presenting in Paris carries a particular and symbolic weight. “There’s an undeniable presence of intricate history here,” she reflects. “It offers a grand yet almost ceremonial backdrop that absorbs and diffuses modernity and creative synergies.”


The city’s scale fosters broad connections. “Paris is intimate yet expansive. It allows for cross-pollination—ideas, people, and energies intertwining,” she says. “It’s a place where past and present coexist, creating a vibrant ecosystem for creativity.”


A forward looking year of expansion


With her return to independent creation, Christine Phung is focused on expanding her business while maintaining the craftsmanship and artistic integrity that’s been  defining her work through the years. “2025 is a transition year,” she states. “I’m currently developing a stronger B2B presence, scaling up production while ensuring that every piece remains refined, considered, and meaningful.”


Her main goal stands clear and defined: Building a wardrobe that blends movement, emotion, and sustainability. “I want each of my pieces to feel like an extension of the wearer that purchases it — effortless yet intentional, structured yet free,” she concludes. With her debut at Premiere Classe marking a bold step forward, Christine Phung is poised to redefine contemporary fashion through the art of fluid structures within garment and accessories design.

Yann Jobard Setzu

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