As the global fashion industry gathered in Paris for the latest edition of Premiere Classe, a new voice in the world of accessories emerged — Millia. Founded by Carmen Inez, the Amsterdam-based brand offers a bold, conceptual approach to leather good design, drawing from architectural forms, interior design influences, and a rather eclectic color palette. With a deep commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability, Millia's presence under the tents of Premiere Classe thoroughly captured the attention of buyers and creatives alike.
Carmen Inez, while on Premiere Classe, gave us a chance to discuss her journey, brand’s philosophy, and the challenges and triumphs of launching a new label in today’s particularly competitive fashion landscape.
The birth of Millia: A personal and intuitive creative vision
Millia was born from Carmen’s personal need for a bag that could seamlessly blend functionality with high design particulars. “I’ve always been a fashion girlie,” she admits. “I was searching for something that wasn’t out there, resulting in the initiative of creating it myself.”
With a background in trend watching studies and a career in public relations, Carmen’s transition to fashion was anything but conventional. “Fashion was always my passion, but I never pursued it professionally until the day I felt a particular inspiration to start sketching,” she recalls. “That led me to suppliers, to materials, and finally to production, through the whole creative process I committed myself to at the time.”
Starting a brand from scratch, however, was no easy feat. “It’s incredibly difficult as a new brand to get in,” she specifies. “Finding the right suppliers, getting factories to take you seriously—is a pretty considerable challenge itself. But I was persistent and therefore managed to reach the right people and companies to make my vision come true.”
Millia’s production is rooted in quality and responsibility. “I chose to work with a factory in Ubrique, Spain. A lot of people told me to produce in China or India for how it’s cheaper and more practical, but I wanted to ensure the best craftsmanship and ethical working conditions within my overall value chain. For me tt’s about more than just the cost—it’s about creating something that lasts and holds a meaningful value to the people we reach as a brand .”
A thinly carve approach to design: Where Fashion collides with architectural influence
Millia’s creative team tends to take a rather architectural approach to accessories crafting. “I studied trend-watching, and I noticed how 70s and 80s interior design—especially sculptural, playful elements—were making a comeback,” Carmen shares. “I was fascinated by the work of Gustav Westman and how he reinterpreted iconic pieces like the Ultrafragola mirror. That sparked a leading idea in my spirit: why not bring those influences into bags?”
Each Millia bag is designed as a functional sculpture. “The idea was to create something that stands on its own—both literally and aesthetically,” she explains. “If you place it on a table, it holds its shape. If you wear it with a simple outfit, it transforms and enhances the entire look. For me, it was all about making my bags the main character or noticeable piece of an outfit.”
The brand’s signature lies in its bold yet refined color palette. “I first launched my collection with four colours—purple, beige, green, and black. Then I introduced butter yellow and chocolate brown,” she says. “I love eclectic shades, but I also wanted neutral tones so my designs could appeal to a broader audience..”
Craftsmanship and sustainability: A commitment to lasting pieces
Sustainability is a core value for Millia, but Carmen remains realistic about the challenges of balancing environmental responsibility with the demands of a young and upcoming brand. “I initially wanted to operate on pre-order only, but that was difficult as the small label we were when entering the market at first,” she confesses. “Instead, I committed to produce in small quantities to minimize waste and base each new collection on the demand data and feedback we’d get at the end of each season…”
Material choice is another key consideration to the brands’ approach. “I use high-quality Nappa leather, which is the same leather used by brands like Loewe and Louis Vuitton’s suppliers,” she notes. “I believe sustainability also means making something durable—something that lasts above five or ten years instead of being disposable as a trending piece of design..” Every piece is handmade, yet again highlighting the brand’s slow-fashion approach. “It takes longer than mass production in China or India, but I value quality over speed,” Carmen affirms.
Premiere Classe: A defining experience for Millia
As a first-time exhibitor at Premiere Classe, Carmen approached the trade show as a major opportunity to introduce her brand to a broader international market. “I applied after my missing application for January’s, I reapplied with two new styles and collection propositions for March’s edition, and therefore got integrated” she precises. “It felt like to me like the right moment to expand beyond the Netherlands and experience the hustle of such a major fashion capital as Paris stands.”
Paris again, she found, was a perfect fit. “Dutch consumers tend to gravitate towards established luxury brands. They save for Prada or Gucci for instance…” she notices. “But in France, people tend to appreciate unique, design-driven pieces. The response here has been amazing and thoroughly considering .”
The trade show itself offered more than just exposure—it fostered valuable connections. “I’ve met incredible buyers, including from Le Printemps and Monnier,” she shares. “Creatively, I’ve furthermore been lucky enough to experience inspiring conversations especially. There’s a shared love for structure, movement, and bold design in most of the creatives’ overall approach to design.”
Looking ahead for the future of Millia
With such a promising debut at Premiere Classe, what’s next for Millia we may wonder? “I want to keep evolving, staying intuitive in my design choices,” Carmen states. “I trust my gut—every major decision I’ve made, from choosing production in Spain to selecting colors, has come from instinct and always resulted in great results!”
Carmen also embraces a rather digital yet life-experiential landscape as a source of inspiration. “TikTok, Pinterest, traveling—these all feed into my creative process,” she details. “I’m constantly absorbing what’s happening in design, art, and culture. That’s my way of capturing my surroundings and continuing to maintain a particular yet trending design approach for each collection.” As for her ideal customer? “At first, I designed for myself. But I’ve realized my bags appeal to such a wide range of people—from young trendsetters to design-conscious professionals,” she precises. “That’s why I offer both playful and neutral colorways—it allows for more inclusivity for each particular audience I might reach with my work for as long as they shall be transmitted and shared over the years…”
Ultimately, Carmen’s vision for Millia has got sharper: “I want to create pieces that aren’t just bags but objects of desire—playful, architectural pieces, built to last.” With its unique fusion of structure, color, and sustainability, Millia is poised to make a lasting impression far beyond the halls of Premiere Classe throughout the accessories and leather goods industry.
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Interview with Janina Düttmann, Designer and Founder of Düttmann, during Premiere Classe March 2025 Edition under ‘Jardins des Tuileries’ iconic venue.
As the global fashion industry gathered in Paris for the latest edition of Premiere Classe, a new voice in the world of accessories emerged — Millia. Founded by Carmen Inez, the Amsterdam-based brand offers a bold, conceptual approach to leather good design, drawing from architectural forms, interior design influences, and a rather eclectic color palette. With a deep commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability, Millia's presence under the tents of Premiere Classe thoroughly captured the attention of buyers and creatives alike.
For her first participation at Premiere Classe, Christine Phung introduces a collection that merges architectural precision with fluid motion and all elements of Nature’s energy expression, a balance between structure and radiance expressed by colours and patterns with underlying deep meaningful expressions. With a career spanning prestigious houses like Lemaire, Chloé, and Vanessa Bruno, Phung has refined a pragmatic yet poetic approach to design.
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Every year since 1985, Hyères has played host to the Festival de la Mode et de la Photographie.
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As the global fashion industry gathered in Paris for the latest edition of Premiere Classe, a new voice in the world of accessories emerged — Millia. Founded by Carmen Inez, the Amsterdam-based brand offers a bold, conceptual approach to leather good design, drawing from architectural forms, interior design influences, and a rather eclectic color palette. With a deep commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability, Millia's presence under the tents of Premiere Classe thoroughly captured the attention of buyers and creatives alike.
For her first participation at Premiere Classe, Christine Phung introduces a collection that merges architectural precision with fluid motion and all elements of Nature’s energy expression, a balance between structure and radiance expressed by colours and patterns with underlying deep meaningful expressions. With a career spanning prestigious houses like Lemaire, Chloé, and Vanessa Bruno, Phung has refined a pragmatic yet poetic approach to design.
As Premiere Classe once again gathered the most visionary emerging designers, Petite A stood out with its ethereal craftsmanship and poetic use of glass as a main creative medium.
On her first visit to Paris for the Premiere Classe trade show, Pamela Duque — a buyer for the URBN group, which includes Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie, and Nuuly — offered a fresh take on the show’s distinctive positioning. She attended with the aim of curating a selection for Nuuly, URBN’s short-term clothing and accessories rental platform.
For the buyers at Al Tayer, based in Dubai, Premiere Classe is an essential destination for discovering emerging brands and spotting unique pieces that resonate with their luxury-conscious clientele. This year, Anastasia Gurskaya and other members of her team focused on accessories and jewellery, seeking out brands that align with the Middle Eastern market’s appreciation for exclusivity, craftsmanship, and sustainability.
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Timeless, artisanal, and sustainable: denim is reinvented at the Athenian brand Sac&Co.
In the vibrant atmosphere of Premiere Classe, Comptoir 102, a Dubai-based concept store, continues its pursuit of unique pieces, set against a backdrop of remarkable craftsmanship. Through the insightful lens of Stephanie Chesneau, Sales Director, the store shares its impressions of this edition, where each encounter uncovers unexpected treasures and stories waiting to be shared.
Last September, the Fédération Française du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin enhanced Who's Next with talks and workshops on digital marketing in fashion. Here's a look back at the ‘Did TikTok kill Instagram? Three experts in fashion and social media discuss community, authenticity, resilience and engagement.
The Parisian eye of Japanese department store Isetan Mitsukoshi tells us about her latest Who’s Next fashion crushes.
Reinhard Plank (Founder and milliner), originally from Vipiteno (Italy) near the Austrian border, first studied design in Vienna before turning to millinery. "I started with hats in Vienna, and my first classic model was a great success," he says. Drawn to Florence's rich hat-making heritage, Reinhard chose this city to perfect his craft.
At the latest edition of “Who’s Next,” we spoke with Camille Pouvreau and Lucas Bouteille, watch and jewellery buyers for Galeries Lafayette, about the burgeoning men’s jewellery market and the long-lasting nature of trends in the watch sector.
A key player in the watchmaking industry since the 1950s, the American Movado Group initially established itself through the distribution of traditional Swiss brands. Over time, it expanded globally, broadening its portfolio to include contemporary designs and jewellery.
Founded in 1954 by the current owner’s parents, Antonio, the Italian shoe brand Guglielmo Rotta is the perfect example of a family craftsmanship that has evolved while remaining true to its roots. At this edition, the brand presented a collection that perfectly illustrates its commitment to quality, timelessness, and Italian craftsmanship.
“Streetwear but make it Couture!” Very Rare, a lifestyle and ready-to-wear brand under the direction of Raf Reyes, embodies an avant-garde vision of streetwear through what the designer defines as ‘street couture’. Born during the 2020 health crisis, this family-run brand, founded with his older brother, stands out for its fluid silhouettes, intricate details such as embroidery, flocking, and graphic prints, and strong influences from 90s subcultures.
For over 15 years, BSL, a Turkish ready-to-wear brand, has made a name for itself in the fashion market in Turkey, with stores in the country’s major cities such as Istanbul, Izmir, Ankara, and Antalya. Initially focused on its own retail outlets, BSL adopted a new strategy last year: expanding its distribution network across Europe.
Reinterpreting its heritage Braccialini, the iconic Italian brand from Florence, is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. "We were born in Florence, and the natural and architectural beauty of Tuscany greatly inspires our creations," shares Daniela, the brand's sales agent.
Craftsmanship at the heart of jewellery creation: a self-taught journey and the rise of gatsby soldering workshop Fifteen years ago, Julie Sion made her mark in the world of costume jewellery with a unique and passionate approach. "I stumbled into this profession a bit by chance," she admits. Self-taught, her first steps into creation were through a craft-focused approach, before collaborating with French workshops to ensure ethical and high-quality production for her eponymous brand. These collaborations led her to develop a strong and engaged community, not only around her creative project but also through the human values she upholds in her work.
During their debut at Who’s Next, the South Korean brand Temp’s, led by Joanne Jeon Eun-jung, captured attention with its deep commitment to sustainability, combined with a modern and conceptual approach to design.
Pamela Kemmat, the influencer and founder of the Pamela Rouen boutique, and her mother Nadège Thevenon, founder of the Paloma Rouen boutique, share their thoughts on “Who’s Next,” an event they regard as the beating heart of the fashion industry.
Meet Abasiekeme Ukanireh, the visionary founder and artistic director of Eki Kere, a Nigerian brand that has captivated audiences with its unique creations, showcasing vibrant raffia-based designs.
Since 1989, the ANDAM (National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts) has played a crucial role in promoting young talent within the fashion industry. Supported by both institutional and private partners, including the Ministry of Culture and industry giants like Balenciaga, Hermès, and Chanel, ANDAM serves as a unique springboard for emerging designers. This year, in conjunction with Premiere Classe, which celebrated ANDAM’s 35th anniversary last March at Maxim's, the prize winners will once again showcase their creations in the ANDAM space at the Carrousel du Louvre from 28th to 30th September.
In the vibrant world of creative industries, the Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories has been a guiding light for emerging talents since 1986. This year, three of the winners from its 38th edition join the selection at the Premiere Classe trade show, a prestigious platform for up-and-coming designers.
The Premiere Classe trade show is dedicated to showcasing creativity and offering turnkey solutions to highlight the essential trends of the season. Renowned for its ability to identify and present emerging creative scenes, the show supports brands in their growth, establishing itself as a key reference for buyers and designers alike.
In the upcoming edition of the Who's Next trade show, taking place from the 8th to the 10th of September, we are excited to present a remarkable selection of new business solutions. Companies from across France and beyond are bringing their unique and innovative visions to the contemporary commercial landscape, blending advanced technology, refined aesthetics, and sustainable commitments. Through their services, these market players highlight innovative, responsible, and transformative practices for the fashion landscape industries.
At the prospect of the upcoming edition of Who’s Next trade shows, we are delighted to once again showcase the remarkable selection of the What’s Up space.
Who's Next? The great thing about the initial chaos of Who's Next is that it has lasted.
In anticipation of the upcoming BIJORHCA trade show, held alongside Who's Next from the 8th to the 10th of September at Porte de Versailles, we are delighted to present a selection of new brands you won’t want to miss. A must-attend event for the jewellery industry since 1930, Bijorhca returns this year with a fresh wave of inspiration for jewellery enthusiasts and professionals alike.
Founded in 2021 by Germain Provot Lorenz, Treaptyque is far more than just a showroom—it's a vibrant and unique space dedicated to curating exceptional pieces.
KEIA (Korea Environmental Industry Association) advocates for eco-conscious initiatives among creative industries in South Korea and abroad notably. Since 2023, the association has been exhibiting on our IMPACT trade show along with Who’s Next. Their project revolves around supporting and promoting sustainable practices and key players of Korea’s industries on an international scale.
BIJORHCA returns alongside Who's Next to transport you from the urban buzz of Barcelona to the carefree summers of the Balearic Islands. Bright and poetic, Spanish jewellery celebrates its artisanal and cultural heritage through both contemporary and timeless designs.
Future Positive by Smiley is back with a space dedicated to its fashion collaborations with brands such as Eastpak, Rainkiss, Jules, Snocks, Saturday Society, Hoptimist and Small World, in the IMPACT area of Who's Next.
Discover the jewelry trades at Bijorhca with Savoir pour Faire, from January 20 to 22, 2024. Bijorhca will be showcasing know-how in Hall 4, where some 150 brands and suppliers are expected.
From January 20 to 22, Who's Next presents its hair fashion selection.
Who's Next presents its new edition, from January 20 to 22, 2024.
Imaginé et créé en 2013, le collectif A Jewel Made In Greece présente et promeut le savoir-faire joaillier grec.
