Mental health is a topic discussed within the fashion and luxury industry. More than a contemporary societal subject, it also allows us to understand the behavior and ethical demands of a new generation of consumers, as explored in this conference led by Florian Müller, the owner of a creative agency focused on fashion, eco-responsibility, and mental health.
It is within the IMPACT and Neonyt Paris forum, a conference space focused on societal issues, that an international crowd convened to attend the round table "Breaking the Cycle: Ethical Demands, Consumer Behaviour, and Mental Health in Fashion". This broad topic of conversation saw Florian Müller, an expert in the field and the initiator of the "Mental Health in Fashion" campaign, invite numerous experts, including journalist Samia Larouiche, Serge Carreira, head of emerging brands at the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode and a lecturer at the Sciences Po Paris Management School, as well as model and entrepreneur Kiko Hirakawa.
Florian Müller is authorized to work psychotherapeutically, teaches internationally, and integrates mental health into both educational programs and the fashion industry. In 2024, he created the new “Mental Health in Fashion” category at Diane Pernet’s ASVOFF Festival, providing an international platform for dialogue and creative engagement. A look back at a conversation in 8 crucial quotes.
Fashion and mental health: what is the issue?
Florian Müller: It’s time to create awareness and discuss how to give new visibility to mental health in the industry. It’s not only about consumers but everyone involved in the fashion system.
With my campaign, I bring together professionals and students from all areas of the industry, create safe spaces for open exchange, and develop new educational and support formats. By collaborating with international partners, Fashion Weeks and initiatives like ASVOFF, I work to ensure that mental health is recognized as a core issue throughout the entire fashion ecosystem. Only through interdisciplinary exchange and structural change can we break taboos and make mental health a lasting priority in fashion. How can we break down stigma?
Samia Larouiche: When we discuss sustainability, we refer to the environment, the economy, and social factors, which include labour law, safety, and both physical and mental health. There are three key profiles: brands, employers, and consumers. The relationship between fashion and mental health is complex, as evidenced by popular culture through works like The Devil Wears Prada, the tragic loss of designer Alexander McQueen, and the controversies surrounding John Galliano. The industry has begun to engage in this conversation for the sake of consistency and corporate image. Existing measures include policies such as prohibiting meetings after 5 or 6 p.m. and on Fridays, restricting the use of official chat platforms, and organising internal events aimed at educating and raising awareness. Furthermore, as companies adapt to support invisible disabilities like dyslexia, NGOs are also working to enhance transparency within the industry, protect workers, and promote awareness of the Duty of Vigilance Act, which holds companies accountable for their impact on human rights. Overall, fashion serves as a powerful platform to question and raise awareness about these critical issues.
Serge Carreira: There exists a clash between corporate regulations and new business perspectives. The romantic myth surrounding being a designer, a genius, suggests that one must suffer in solitude. That outstanding achievements arise from pain. McQueen is one of the most revered designers, yet he suffered immensely, and we perpetuate these notions. Some designers adopt a different approach; Karl Lagerfeld was always focused on the work while also enjoying it. Jonathan Anderson juggles multiple tasks while embracing joy. The notion of joy needs to be promoted more prominently. It’s not merely about being naive. There is significant pressure regarding emerging designers because the market has never been so competitive. Nowadays, there is an additional layer of pressure to be both a manager and a designer. The complexity level of each field is becoming higher, no matter how small or large the brand. It puts pressure on the teams and the designers. So, we need to break the fashion mythologies.
Kiko Hirakawa: I genuinely believe that beauty standards play a role. At 17, I struggled with an eating disorder and lacked self-esteem. This arose from my modelling agents, but we must acknowledge that there is pressure on them from the brands. When you speak to them, they will mention the risk of losing clients. As a model, it’s vital to embrace our imperfections. We must be more inclusive of healthier, older bodies, rather than being fixated on youth. We ought to question beauty standards. How do I want to feel, enjoy my life, and how do I wish to present myself in my work? The industry requires transformation, yet the change must originate from within ourselves.
Finding solutions
Samia Larouiche: What benefits the consumer also benefits the business. Stella McCartney launched a limited-edition bag in collaboration with Cleo Wade and mental health advocate Deepak Chopra. Designers wield the power to influence the industry, allowing brands to create a deeper connection with consumers.
Kiko Hirakawa: I used to speak very openly, and now I choose to do so in the appropriate environment and with the right people. Furthermore, I have shifted towards participating in panel discussions, conferences, and talk shows. This is how I perceive the changes taking place. I recognise the potential for where change can lead. There are limited resources for models, and some organisations are working on Model Laws or the Model Alliance. However, I believe there is insufficient space for models to express themselves. I hope more agencies will prioritise mental health alongside that of models. As such, I organise meetups with models. Regarding influencers, I wish to emphasise the importance of understanding your limits and boundaries and adhering to them. It is essential.
Florian Müller : To further expand the campaign’s reach, I am developing new international partnerships and innovative projects that amplify the voices of those affected, foster sustainable change, and ensure that mental health becomes a lasting priority in the global fashion industry.
Serge Carreira: Ultimately, the issue lies in trying to conform to stereotypes and distorting your true self. In your desire to be fashionable, you may restrict yourself to something you’re not, and these disconnections between your identity and the persona you envision lead to problems. Embracing a more open mindset is a pathway to emancipation for those on the margins. Explore things for yourself rather than simply adhering to what exists or what has already been done.
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Mental health is a topic discussed within the fashion and luxury industry. More than a contemporary societal subject, it also allows us to understand the behavior and ethical demands of a new generation of consumers, as explored in this conference led by Florian Müller, the owner of a creative agency focused on fashion, eco-responsibility, and mental health.
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Imaginé et créé en 2013, le collectif A Jewel Made In Greece présente et promeut le savoir-faire joaillier grec.
